How to be a highly-respected winemaker, live life with a wonderful woman that owns her own winery miles away and still be the coolest and nicest person: Our visit to great winemaker Wittmann in Rheinhessen.
When you enter the beautiful winery Wittmann in Rheinhessen the first thing that you will see is a beautiful rose garden on the right side of the entry. Günter Wittmann created it. After a difficult vintage. He is the one in the family who does best with all types of plants. Also in the vineyards, Günter has always been the best carer for the vines.
That is the influence of winemaking tradition: Already since the 17th century, the Wittmanns and their ancestors have been winemakers in Westhofen. That adds up to 350 years of experience over fifteen generations. And still there is continuous development: the estate has been certified „organic winegrower“ since 1990 and biodynamic since 2004.
Philipp does the job fantastically
What can you say about Philipp Wittmann? He is a wonderful and super-nice person. He is managing a winery with an excellent reputation around the world. The quality of his wines is simply outstanding. With the Morstein, he has a true icon in his portfolio that is desired by winelovers everywhere on the planet. His other Grand Cru (Grosses Gewächs) vineyards are really close in quality and have a clear distinction. Looks like someone is doing a fantastic job.
For many years, Philipp was the President of the VDP (German association of high-level winemakers) for the Rheinhessen region. He his respected and very well connected to the rest of the German and European wine world. In the meantime he passed the responsibility for the VDP Rheinhessen to a successor. Everything works really well for Philipp.
A life between two traditional wineries
The life of Philipp Wittmann and his wife Eva Clüsserath could be easier sometimes. Two great kids but also two traditional winemaking legends need to be taken care of - as Eva manages the great winery Ansgar Clüsserath in Trittenheim in the Moselle area. Another family heritage since the 17th century.
When you talk about these challenges with Philipp Wittmann everything seems to boil down to basically organizational challenges. Everything can be solved. He doesn’t seem to be stressed, he is just very cool. Both seem to manage things really well - based on routine, understanding and the respect for the work of each other. Two worlds: Moselle and Rheinhessen, slate and limestone, 143 kilometers away.
Preparing already for climate change
Climate change is a topic that is in Philipp’s head. The region has been benefitting from the change in temperatures. There have been many difficult vintages in the 60s and 70s, but right now one great vintage follows the next. But what if the weather gets wormer and wormer. The Rieslings need some cooler climate, some cooler nights, some cooler winds. But also here Philipp has a clear vision.
When you walk on the Morstein it seems to be a rather flat peace of land. But when you see it from the distance you will realize: It is quite a huge and long hill. Between the top of it and the lower parts there is at least one week difference in the ripening process of the grapes. When the Riesling grapes are harvested in the lower parts they have some way to go still in the upper parts. By strategically buying some parts of the uphill vineyards, Philipp will make sure that the freshness of his Riesling style can be preserved also in the future.
The next big thing
It seems to be a part of the story of this winery that Philipp Wittmann of course has another ace up his’ sleeve. The magic word is „Höllenbrand“ - a rather big vineyard that has the huge potential to be declared a „Grosses Gewächs“ one day. The cool climate would offer the opportunity to make a GG riesling that is on the cooler side of Wittmann’s portfolio. That is why the winery has purchased bigger parts of this vineyard.
In the Nierstein area he also owns a part of the „Ölberg“ - another Grand Cru vineyard. When we asked him if one day there will be six instead of four GGs in his lineup - with one added on the warmer end and one on the cooler end - Philipp just smiles and doesn’t answer. What is clear already: The „Höllenbrand“ vineyard also offers a great potential to make very high-end Pinot Noirs. Something that Philipp has already planned and put into practice.
Time for a tasting
The best way to get convinced how much Philipp Wittmann performs is to try his wines. The result is simple: From the basics wines to the top of Aulerde, Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein, you have great value for money in the glass. A great elegant style with focus on the mineralogy of the vineyards. An amazing collection.
Check our tasting notes HERE.
Weingut Wittmann
Mainzer Strasse 19
67593 Westhofen bei Worms
Germany
Visit website of winemaker Weingut Wittmann.