Everything stays the same – just differently. Our visit at winemaker Christmann.
Like many others, winery A. Christmann is in the shift from one generation to the next. Only here you’ll find a crazy mix between perfect family harmony and a lot of continuation while at the same time massive changes and huge new projects are at the doorstep.
When we arrived at the beautiful village of Gimmeldingen in the Pfalz region the sun was shining. Everything seemed quite and the way it has been for decades. It is quite intimidating to look at the sign at the door of winery A. Christmann. It says “VDP” which is the association of high-quality winemakers in Germany – “the president”. It feels a bit like you step into the White House or the Élysée Palace. The building looks just a bit different. The winery is one of these beautiful timbering houses that you can find in this region.
The part of “nothing changes”
Christmann has been managed by Steffen Christmann since 1996. His father changed the philosophy to a high-quality producer. Steffen has been following this path very successfully. Every year, Christmann is mentioned in the top ten range of German Riesling wines. Especially due to the big part of vineyards in the Idig and the high-end Grosses Gewächs from this truly beautiful part of nature.
The roots of the winery reach back into the very early 19th century. But as time flies by, the winery finds itself in the phase of switching to the next generation like many others do too. But here you have the feeling that it works in a different – a better way. Sophie will take over – that has been clear for years. Since then, the two simply manage things together. It could be a switch where most of the things just stay as they are. And this is somehow the truth. High quality, focus on a great teamwork, not forgetting where the amazing success of the winery comes from.
The part of “major change”
So, what is new at the winery? Actually, a lot. First thing we learned is that Christmann extended the area of their winemaking by acquiring additional vineyards from a neighbor winery. Not exactly new vineyards – just additional areas in the existing high-quality areas they are already in. Not a small amount. We are talking about a fifty percent growth. That alone is a major challenge for every winery. But that’s not it.
There is this vision of Sophie about producing a different level of Pinot Noirs in the future. She learned a lot about that in all her studies and works for other winemakers. An education that has grown an amazing passion for Pinots. At the moment roughly 70 percent of the vines of Christmann are Riesling. But in the future this could change to a mix where 25 percent is Pinot Noir and also Pinot Blanc might play a bigger role.
Great Pinots from the Pfalz region
Looking at the developments of other wineries in Germany this seems to be just the right step. Pinot is growing in importance. Regions like the Baden area have proven that outstanding Pinots can be made with the best quality and ratings from all the known wine testers. But the Pfalz region is not yet at the same level – while having everything it needs.
But that’s not it. Sophie took us to the hills of the city of Neustadt. Here another promising project has yet started. Together with another high-quality producer in the region, Christmann has acquired new vineyards which are highly promising – the Neustädter Vogelsang. An area with high concentration of coquina soil. Also for this part of their work there is a clear vision. Making wines that could – after some years of making everything biodynamic – reach the level of quality that an Idig has today.
If you think that is enough change at once, we have to disappoint you. On top of all of that Christmann just announced the cooperation with Mathieu Kauffmann – winemaker of the year 2019 according to Falstaff and a highly talented artist in making outstanding sparkling wines at the quality level of the best Champagnes. Mathieu just left winery Reichsrat von Buhl where he showed his fantastic qualities. Together, they will produce a Sekt which we cannot wait to try.
The next level of continuity
No question. If Sophie and Steffen Christmann continue all of these amazing projects while not forgetting what made the winery so successful there is great things to come. And this is what it seems they do. Hand in hand. They have everything it needs: promising vineyards, massive talent, and all they great connections from Steffens decades of work for the German wine association.
We will continue to stay close to this fantastic winery. The 2018 collection which we were able to taste from bottom to top was indeed a clear message: This is big fun in the glass.
Check out all the tasting notes.
Take the time to read our tasting notes on the 2018 Christmann Riesling collection here.
Weingut Christmann
Peter-Koch-Straße 43
D-67435 Gimmeldingen
Visit website of winemaker Christmann.